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South America, Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, Torre Norte del Paine, 1989

Torre Norte del Paine, 1989. The first days of January, 1989 were stormy and windy and so Enrico Marazzi and I set up our tent on the moraine at the foot of the gully that leads to the Brecha Bich between the North and Central Towers. We waited for five days before the weather was good enough to climb the Italian route of 1958. On January 11, 1989, there were no clouds and wind and we set out at six A.M. The first part was bare rock, but halfway up to the col it turned dangerous because of verglas. The wind began to blow again at the Brecha Bich as we continued up the Bich route. The first 100 meters were nearly vertical rock up to UIAA difficulty of VI. The rest of the climb to the summit was easier. We were back in camp at the end of 18 hours.

Giacomo Baroni, Club Alpino Italiano