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South America, Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, Don Bosco, South Face

Don Bosco, South Face. The very difficult south face of Don Bosco (2150 meters, 7054 feet) was finally climbed by Italians. The expedition was composed of Giuseppe Alippi, Benigno and Ugo Balatti, Oreste Lafranconi, Afredo Passini and Luciano Spadaccini. The 900-meter-high face is entirely of ice. On January 8, Alippi, Spadaccini and B. Balatti set out. They climbed nine pitches in an ice couloir and then on the open face. After a very cold, windy bivouac, the next day they reached the summit. The last 150 meters of the ascent and the descent were accomplished in storm. The ice averaged over 60° and was of 95° in places.

Silvia Metzeltin Buscaini, Club Alpino Italiano