American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, Fitz Roy, Solo and in Winter

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Fitz Roy, Solo and In Winter. Three Japanese, Yasushi Yamanoi, Mitsuhiru Iwata and Kenji Iwata, had hoped to climb Fitz Roy in winter. The Iwata brothers wanted to climb the 1968 American route on the southwest buttress and Yamanoi hoped to do the Argentine route solo. However after they had ferried gear to the Brecha de los Italianos, Kenji Iwata abandoned the climb and left the mountain. Yamanoi joined Mitsuhiru Iwata on the southwest buttress, but the latter got frostbitten hands in deteriorating weather and he too had to quit. On July 26, Yamanoi reached their previous high point. The next day, he made good progress but spent a miserable night hanging from ice axes in a fierce wind. He reached the summit on July 28. A full article with photographs appears in Iwa To Yuki, N° 143 on pages 8 to 15.

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