American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Chacraraju Este and Artesonraju, Cordillera Blanca

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Chacraraju Este and Artesonraju, Cordillera Blanca. Yugoslav Pavle Kozjek had a fine season in the Cordillera Blanca. On June 14, he completed the probably first solo ascent of the American route on the 900-meter-high south face of Chacraraju Este. Despite the steepness (55° to 65°), the bottom part of the face was covered with heavy snow. The crux was the 150-meter-high summit wall of 80° to 85°, which is cut by a rock barrier. The route was first climbed by Mark Richey and Steve Brewer. Kozjek then climbed Artesonraju by a 1000- meter-high face of 50° to 60°, where he had to fight deep snow. He gave up on the north face of Huascarán Sur as the central part was continuously being swept by falling ice and rock.

Józef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland

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