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North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Southernmost of the Seven Sisters Mountains and Glacial Exploration, Ellesmere Island, 1987

Southernmost of the Seven Sisters Mountains and Glacial Exploration, Ellesmere Island, 1987. On August 2, 1987, Dan Merfeld, Dave Slobodin and I made the first known non-aerial exploration of the snout of the Abbe Glacier (82°01 'N, 71°30'W), ascending a mile or more. We considered the ascent of the moderate west flank of the southernmost peak of the Seven Sisters Mountains, but marginal weather and the modest climbing experience of two of the party led us to turn back. The following day, the weather cleared. My companions were not interested in a second effort. Therefore, I made the first ascent of the peak solo via the more challenging and aesthetic south couloir, which in the lower half averaged 45° but steepened in the upper fan to about 70°, with water ice below the surface. The view which unfolded on the summit (5240 feet by aneroid) out over the icecap was my most overwhelming mountain experience. After rejoin ing my companions, we traveled from Lake Hazen to Tanquary Fiord, making the first complete traverse between the Scylla and Charybdis Glacier on August 9. Finally, to reach Tanquary, on August 11 we made the third known traverse of the Rollrock Glacier.

Theodore McDade, Unaffiliated