American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Logan Mountains, Lotus Flower Tower

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Lotus Flower Tower. In July, Masakazu Fujiwara, Atsushi Saito and Eisaku Nozu completed a new route on the Lotus Flower Tower to the left of the 1968 McCarthy-Frost-Bill route. After fixing the first three pitches, they returned and did the route with three bivouacs. To their great surprise, they found a body in a red sleeping bag on a ledge in the fifth pitch. Because they found traces of an earlier attempt, they veered right and joined the 1968 route at the 10th pitch. From the 11th pitch on, they went back to the left crack and reached the top at the end of the 20th pitch. (VI, 5.10, A2.) On the descent via the 1968 route, they met an American party from Utah (Steve Walker and others). A full article with many photos appears in Iwa To Yuki, N° 143 on pages 64 to 70.

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