American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, South Howser Spire, East Face, Bugaboos

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Mount Lempriere, Monashee Range. The northern Monashee Range runs parallel to the Canadian Rockies. Its sedimentary and metamorphic rock has limited technical climbing. Yet, there are high alpine peaks with important glaciers and steep, imposing faces, none more significant than the north face of Mount Lempriere. In July, Brian Leo, Mark Hutson and I flew by helicopter from Valemont, setting up a tent on the sprawling glacier northeast of the mountain. Very early, we set off the next morning, climbing icy, crevassed ramps to the final bergschrund some 2000 feet beneath the summit. The ice climbing, interspersed with occasional climbing on a rib of very loose cock, was continuous with a 55° slope and some poor ice-screw placements because of warming temperatures. There were 25 pitches in all. We bivouacked on a tiny ledge 200 feet below the summit.

Fred Beckey

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