American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Mount Lempriere, Monashee Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Mount Scheldt, Muskwa Range, Northern Rockies. After Dave Weins had landed us on June 11 north of Mount Roosevelt, we figured we had six weeks to spend in the Muskwa Range. In the next four days, we carried four weeks’ food and equipment to Base Camp four kilometers north of Mounts Arnhem and Scheldt. The other two weeks’ food we cached in a tree. After reconnaissance, the weather went bad and we returned for the rest of the food. A grizzly bear had got ahead of us and eaten up our food suspended some nine feet from a tree. On June 29, we set out up the north glacier of Scheldt and up a 50° ice wall to gain the west ridge. The climbing on the ridge was easy but on sharp, loose blocks. After a severe snow squall, we climbed the last 120 meters in sunshine to the summit (2759 meters, 9050 feet). For the descent, we chose a northern branch of the south glacier and bivouacked on it at midnight. The next morning we climbed a neighboring peak by its western side. With food running out, we descended to leave equipment for Weins to fly out and walked out to the Alaska Highway.

Ralf Zimmermann, Deutscher Alpenverein

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