P 3080 and P 3191. Upper South Arm of Kaskawulsh Glacier. The easiest access to the St. Elias Mountains is up Slims River and the Kaskawulsh Glacier. Again this year a French party explored the relatively unknown part of the range. We were Bernard Brighi, Sewka and Françoise Chanel, Philippe Martin, Fran çois de Monteillard, Jean Poirier and me as leader. On August 2, the third day of our approach, we made our way onto the glacier. The next day, we got to where Jacques Rouillard’s French party in 1985 had its Base Camp. Alerted by tracks of a mother bear and cub and by the absence of ground squirrels, I came over a moraine ridge where I found myself face to face with a splendid grizzly. I retreated slowly and we moved camp. Despite bad weather on the 5th, we received an airdrop and the next day were camped at the junction of the South Arm of the Kuskawulsh and the Atrypa Glacier. On the 7th, we climbed the 2800-meter peak just south of the junction; this was not a first ascent. On August 9, we established Camp VI at 2275 meters on the eastern bay of the glacier. From there we made what we believe are the first ascents of P 3080 (10,105 feet) and P 3191 (10,470 feet). These lie on the ridge between the South Arm and Disappointment Glacier; the former, which was easy to climb from the south, lies north of the latter. We climbed P 3191 by ascending the glacier going south and swinging east to climb the rotten rock of the south ridge. We left the region on August 15.
Pierre Chanel, Club Alpin Français