American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Pinnacle Peak and Other Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Pinnacle Peak and Other Ascents. Our group of ten from Toronto was flown to the upper basin of the south arm of the Kaskawulsh Glacier. The weather was good, the Base Camp was placed in a fabulous setting at 8600 feet, we were the third party and the first Canadians to climb the spectacular Pinnacle Peak with seven in the group participating in the successful ascent. We skied. We climbed twelve mountains in total with first ascents of new peaks and we put up new routes on mountains with only one or two previous ascents. The following mountains were climbed, clockwise from Pinnacle Peak. First ascents are marked by an asterisk (*). Pinnacle Peak (3714 feet, 12,186 feet), 5th ascent on July 17 via the glacier on the northwest side to the west col on skis and west ridge to summit by Bill McKenzie, Bill Geddes, Roger Wallis, Glynis Peters, Yan Huckendubler, Gord Gruber, Joe Prokopiak. Previous ascents: 1965, Alvin Randall and party by west ridge (AAJ, 1966, pp. 149-150) and 1974, Brian Carson and party by east ridge, west ridge and north ridge (AAJ, 1975, pp. 144-5); P 3500* on July 14 via 3371-meter col west of the summit and upper south face to the west ridge by McKenzie, Geddes, Prokopiak, Gruber, Wallis, Peters, Mary Whitley; P 3490*, which has three distinct summits. West (high est) and Central on July 7 from west col by McKenzie, Geddis and East on July 14 by McKenzie, Geddes; P 3440* on July 7 via southeast ridge from east col by McKenzie, Geddes; P 3570* on July 19 via northeast ridge by McKenzie, Geddes; P 3140 on July 7 via northeast ridge from 3020-meter pass by Wallis, Wally Joyce, Don Hamilton, Prokopiak, Peters, Huckendubler; the second ascent of P 3450 on July 8 via traverse from the lower and previously unclimbed south summit (3410 meters), which was climbed via southeast face and south east ridge, by McKenzie, Geddes with descent by the first-ascent route. The route to P 3410 was repeated on July 19 by Gruber and Prokopiak. Previous ascent of P 3450: 1961, Frank Fickeisen and party by southwest ridge (AAJ, 1962 pp. 231-2); P 3079 via south face and traverse to P 3120 on July 13 by McKenzie, Wallis, Hamilton, Joyce and on July 16 by McKenzie, Geddes, Whitley, Gruber. Previous ascent: 1978, Jean Therison and party (AAJ, 1979, p. 204); P 3005* on July 18 via west ridge by Wallis, Joyce and on July 19 by Peters, Huckendubler; P 3010 on July 19 via west ridge by Peters, Hucken dubler. Previous ascents: 1980, Jim Eason and Peter Hoose (CAJ, 1981, p. 79) and 1985, Hector McKenzie and party (CAJ, 1988, p. 100); P 3020 on July 9 via south ridge by McKenzie, Geddes. Previous ascent: 1974, Bruce Carson and party (AAJ, 1975, pp. 144-5); P 3015 on July 9 via north ridge by McKenzie, Geddes, Peters, Huckendubler, Prokopiak, Wallis, Joyce. Previous ascents: 1974, Bruce Carson and party (AAJ, 1975, pp. 144-5) and 1978, Hector McKenzie and party. (AAJ, 1979, p. 204.) Note: With the recent publication of the 1:50,000 topographic maps of Kluane Park, it is now possible to record accurately what mountain has been climbed. Previously when one used the 1:250,000 map, there was some ambiguity; hence there may have been other ascents of the mountains mentioned above.

Roger Wallis, Alpine Club of Canada

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