AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, United States, Colorado, Longs Peak, 1988

Longs Peak, 1988. In early April, 1988, I soloed a new route on the Diamond without fixed rope or bolts. Smash the State (V, 5.8, A5-) starts in a chimney/ groove to the right of Its Welx, crosses left almost to King of Swords and then goes straight up to the S-shaped roof. The crux pitch nails over the S-roof and ascends the blank-appearing wall of golden granite. Moderate hooking links the thin seams at A3+ and keeps on for a pitch of A5-. The route joins Its Welx and King of Swords. On August 6, 1988 I soloed a new route, Anti-Nuclear Tide, on the lower east face of Longs Peak left of the Diagonal Route. I started up a pillar left of the big arches and wandered up five pitches of A4 and four of 5.10 to Broadway near the base of the Notch Couloir. It has eight bolts and generally links bashy or layback flakes with hooking or face climbing (V, 5.10, A4+).

James Beyer