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North America, United States, Wyoming—Wind River Range, Squaretop Mountain, 1989

Squaretop Mountain, 1989. In August, 1989, Mike Colacino and I made the first free ascent of the west face of Squaretop Mountain. We climbed a 1600-foot dihedral on the buttress on the right skyline as seen from Green River Lakes. The Lowe route began in cracks left of the dihedral. We found the dihedral dry enough to start directly in it and climb it free for eleven long pitches. We found little evidence of previous climbs. A few backoff slings were found low on the route and a few old pins six pitches up. The climbing was generally well protected on excellent rock, continuous, with two 5.10 pitches and many of 5.8 and 5.9. The crux was an off-width crack. The approach of six miles of trail and three of bushwhack should keep this route from becoming too popular. A fine climb in a remote setting. (V, 5.10.)

James Smith