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North America, United States, Wyoming—Wind River Range, Mount Hooker, North Face

Mark Rolofson, Stuart Ritchie and I climbed a six-pitch variation to the 1964 Robbins route on the north face of Mount Hooker. We climbed the route entirely free except for 50 feet of A2 on the 14th pitch. We felt that if the rock were dry, this section would go free and would have been the crux pitch. Starting on August 7, we spent three days route-finding, leading and fixing the first five pitches. We then spent another 3½ days on the wall to complete our ascent, The route was 19 pitches of granite ranging from big, loose blocks to compact and vertical. The difficulty varied from 5.6 to 5.12a with most of the pitches 5.11.

Annie Whitehouse