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North America, United States, California—Yosemite, Half Dome, Northwest Face, Kali-Yuga, 1989

Half Dome, Northwest Face, Kali-Yuga, 1989. In early October 1989, I arrived in Yosemite with no specific plans and met Walt Shipley, who had just finished carrying his gear down the Half Dome slabs after a solo attempt of a new route to the right of Tis-sa-ack. I convinced him that his fixed ropes, up to pitch 5, would be unsafe if left over the winter and we teamed up for the ascent. For the next three days we carried gear up the slabs to the base. After seven days and six nights on the wall, we topped out on a beautiful full-moon night. The last pitch exits through the steepest section of the final overhangs but required no bolts. The 17-pitch route is completely independent of all others, though it crosses Tis-sa-ack at two-thirds height. We had good climbing including a blind chimney, a wild pendulum, 5.10 climbing on a thin flake and much sporty A3+ nailing, copperheading and hooking. (VI, 5.10, A4.)

John Middendorf, A5 Adventures, Flagstaff, Arizona