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North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Angel Peak

Angel Peak. In January, Paul Fehlau and I attempted a new route on the unclimbed south face of Angel Peak. The rock was softer than any I had played on in the desert. I knocked so much loose material on Paul that we abandoned the attempt. We then did the regular route, which I recount here. This climb (II, 5.7) lies on the north side of the peak. It starts up one pitch between the west peak and the main summit. Then a traverse is made left for 40 feet before going left up a rotten dihedral. We then traversed back right, across a catwalk hewn into the soft stone. A short steep section leads to the summit. It is not known who made the first ascent. There are rappel anchors on the summit.

Cameron Burns, Los Alamos Climbing Club