P 8690 and P 9840, St. Elias Mountains. On June 21, I led Susan Bolton and Bob Bolin to near the tongue of the Chitina Glacier. After landing at Huberts Landing Strip, for two days we hiked through brush to camp at 6600 feet. On June 24, we spent time practicing self-arrest on sloppy snow and the rest of the time listening to thunderous avalanches coming off the peaks around us. Warm temperatures even at night and rain made things worse. On June 25, we trudged up the wet glacier to P 8690 northeast of camp. The summit did offer good views of the surrounding peaks. On June 26, we decided to attempt P 9840, the peak which had initially drawn me to the region. This beautiful mountain rises 7800 feet above the Chitina valley to the south, a snowy pyramid when viewed from the west along the river. We climbed the glacier which flows to the east from the col between it and P 9110 to its southwest. At 8000 feet we were forced onto the buttress that led to the saddle at 9000 feet. From there, we followed the corniced ridge over several steep steps to the pointed summit. We believe that both were first ascents.
Danny W. Kost, St. Elias Alpine Guides