American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Western China, Kongur, Northwest Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Kongur, Northwest Ridge. The expedition was composed of climbing leader Etsuro Yasuda, Tateshi Sudo, Hideo Muto, Junjiro Hori, Yukihiro Enomoto, Chiharu Yoshimura, Kazuhiro Nakato, Shogo Takahashi, Kouichi Tomoda, T. Shimuzu, Sadao Matsuda and me as general chief leader. On June 4, Base Camp was established at 3600 meters on the Kalaidark Glacier above Hozu. It took four weeks to develop the route. Camps were placed at 4850, 5300 and 6250 meters. The lower part of the route was difficult with rock walls, a snow ridge and an icefall. Ropes were fixed above Camp III on the Kasa Iwa (Umbrella Rock) section, the crux of the climb. On July 9, three parties of three climbers each set out from Camp III alpine-style. They bivouacked between 6650 and 6700 meters. After one more bivouac at 7450 meters, on July 11 all but Shimuzu, Matsuda and I reached the top (7719 meters, 25,325 feet). No signs were seen of the three Japanese climbers who had been lost eight years before when trying the same route. This was the second ascent of Kongur.

Ryuichi Kotani, Kyoto Karakoram Club, Japan

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