American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Everest Attempts from the North

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Everest Attempts from the North. There were many attempts to climb Everest from Tibet in the post-monsoon period, but none were successful. Several are noted below separately. Groups were on the North Col route. Swiss Norbert Joos and Diego Wellig, South Tyrolean Hans Kammerlander and Czech Pavel Dolecek climbed past the North Col and entered the Messner Couloir, getting to 8100 meters on September 25. American Mike Dunn led an expedition of Americans, Mexicans and Australians which got to 8600 meters on October 24. Four Italians under the leadership of Lorenzo Mazzoleni tried to climb the north face by the Japanese Couloir. On September 25, they reached their high point of 7500 meters. This same route was attempted in October by Japanese led by Yoshio Ogata. They got to 7800 meters. Chileans and Americans led by Dr. Juan Andres Maramisio tried to climb the west ridge from Tibet. They got to 6200 meters on October 14. Americans included Keith Abell and Tim Purcell.

Elizabeth Hawley

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