American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Everest Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Everest Attempt. Our Civilian-Military Expedition was composed of Captains Alfonso Juez, Francisco Gam, Franco Pelayo, Cesar Alfaro, Pedro Expósito, Sergeants Pedro Aceredillo, Francisco Pérez, Juan Orta, Domingo Hernández, Eduardo Fernández, Avelino Mora, and civilians Dr. Joan Martínez, Leo Vogué, Miguel Vidal, Máximo Murcia and me as leader. We had hoped to climb the North Col route. We set up Base Camp, Advance Base, Camps II (on North Col), III and IV (below the Yellow Band) at 5150, 6400, 7060, 7800 and 8350 meters on June 19, July 2, 4, 25 and August 17. The highest point reached was 8550 meters on August 27. The great quantity of snow hampered our movements above the North Col at all times.

Santiago Arribas, Lieutenant Colonel, Escuela Militar de Montaña, Jaca, Spain

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