Asia, Tibet, Everest Attempt

Publication Year: 1990.

Everest Attempt. The members of our expedition were Mari Abrego, Víctor Arnal, Josema Casimiro, Antonio Ubieto, Miguel Lausín, Ignacio Cinto, Teodoro Palacín, Patxi Senosiaín, José Garcés, Iñaki Arregui, José Marciano, Jesús Gómez, Julio Benedé, Orenzo Ortas, José Rebollo and I as leader. Base Camp was placed at 5200 meters on June 15. Taking advantage of good weather, we placed Advance Base at the foot of the North Col at 6400 meters on June 23, fixed ropes, and placed Camp I on the North Col at 7060 meters on July 4. After a dump was made the next day at 7500 meters, bad weather and snowfall interrupted activity until July 20. This dump was lost under deep snow. Camp II was established at 7800 meters on July 25. A first try for the summit got back only to Camp II before being stopped by bad weather. More storms prevented establishing Camp III at 8350 meters until August 25. On August 27, four climbers and a Sherpa set out for another summit attempt but had to quit at 8530 meters because of deep snow. A final try by two members on September 3 reached the same altitude, but the conditions were equally bad.

Javier Escartín, Montañeros de Aragón, Spain