American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Everest Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Everest Attempt. After their successful ascent of Dhaulagiri, on May 30 Oreste Forno, Graziano Bianchi, Fausto Destefani, Sergio Martini, Silvio Mondinelli and Claudio Schranz on May 30 left Kathmandu by bus for Kodari and traveled from there by jeep and truck to arrive at Rongbuk on June 2. They had originally hoped to climb the Japanese route on the north face but they changed their objective to the Great Couloir. They set up Advance Base, Camps I and II at 5400, 6100 and 7000 meters on June 7, 8 and 13. On June 14, Destefani and Martini hoped to set up Camp III at 7800 meters, but at 7500 meters the weather was so bad that they cached their loads and descended. The weather continued bad until June 21. A reconnaissance on June 22 showed the mountain out of condition. Bad weather continued and they left on June 30.

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