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Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face, Attempt and Tragedy

Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt and Tragedy. The members of our expedition were Hitoshi Sakurai, Nobuyoshi Sakurai, Iwao Ogasawara, Shinji Kobayashi, Tetusa Baba, Shinya Nakashima, Katsuyuki Kitamura, Masaki Akiba, Ms. Yukiko Fukuzawa, Ms. Masae Yoshino, Masanori Sato, Taro Tanigawa, Daisuke Shimizu and I as leader. On June 18, we got to Base Camp at 3650 meters on the Bazhin Glacier above Rupal. We established Camps I, II and III at 4500, 4500 and 5600 meters on June 23, July 1 and 12. On July 16, Tetsuya Baba was struck by lightning and badly injured. We called for a helicopter, but this was available only at the altitude of Base Camp. We carried him down, still alive for the next 48 hours, but he died when we reached 5250 meters. Mr. Baba’s parents and sister came to attend the funeral, which lasted until July 27. On the 28th, we began a second attempt. Sato, Akiba and I placed Camp IV at 6070 meters. On August 6, we reached 6250 meters on Rakhiot Peak. At that time, we received information that one of our female members had broken her leg between Camps I and II. There was also avalanche danger. I decided not to expose the group to further dangers.

Keijiro Hayasaka, Tokyo University of Agriculture Alpine Club