American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Winter Attempt, 1988-9

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 1990

Nanga Parbat Winter Attempt, 1988-9. Our expedition consisted of Maciej Berbeka, Piotr Konopka, Dr. Roman Mazik, Andrzej Osika, Andrzej Samolewicz, Wtodzimierz Stoinski, Stanistaw Szczerba, Zbigniew Terlikowski and me from Poland, Krzysztof Szafranski from Colombia and Kurt Walde from Italy. We arrived at Base Camp at 3600 meters on December 18, 1988. Temperatures there were between -18° and -25° C and higher, between -25° and -35°. Our objective was the southeast buttress, but dangerous conditions forced a change in plans to the 1970 German route. On December 25, Camp I was established at 4750 meters. Unstable, windy weather slowed progress and we could not make Camp II at 6000 meters, the site of German Camp III, until January 17. Lack of snow cover and very hard ice required our fixing more than 2000 meters of rope. Despite attempts, we could not establish Camp III. On February 9, Berbeka, Kanopka and Osika reached a high point of 6800 meters. The weather deteriorated once again and we decided to abandon the climb.

PaweL Mularz, Klub Wysokogórski, Zakopane

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