AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Pakistan, Shani, Naltar Valley

Shani, Naltar Valley. Our expedition had as climbers Duncan Francis, Martin Oakes and me, as well as support members. Having arrived at Naltar by jeep, on July 29 and 30 we walked to Base Camp in the upper Shani valley by the Shani Glacier at 3700 meters. On August 4,1 soloed Snow Dome (5030 meters, 16,503 feet; probably a second ascent), followed on August 7 by the other two. Our original intention was to make a northeast-west traverse of Shani. Due to unsettled weather and much snow on the northeast ridge, from August 11 to 13 we climbed the 2000-meter high, previously unclimbed southeast face. We ascended the icefall on left side and a rock spur. We then went up an icefield to a ridge on the left side of the face, climbed four pitches around a rock tower and abseiled to a second snowfield. Above this, a steep couloir led to a steeper icefield and the summit ridge. We three reached the summit of Shani (5885 meters, 19,308 feet) on August 13, a second ascent. Out of 21 days at Base Camp, we had nine days of bad weather. The longest period of continuous good weather was three days.

Peter Leeming, England