American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Shikitin Sar, Shimshal Valley

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Shifkitin Sar, Shimshal Valley. In 1986, an Irish expedition reconnoitered the Malanguti Glacier area in the Shimshal valley and unsuccessfully attempted virgin Shifkitin Sar (c. 5800 meters, 19,029 feet). On September 9, 1989, Netherlanders established Base Camp at 3300 meters. They set up camps at 4200 and 4400 meters along the long glacier. After a snow-hole bivouac at 5200 meters, on September 16 Robert Eckhardt, Rob Lith and Tanja Merkelbach reached the summit of Shifkitin Sar, climbing snow and ice on the northwest side to get to the west ridge. It was not difficult, with a 45° snow couloir in the lower part and a 50° slope in the final section. The fourth member was Noes Lautier. Climbs up to 6000 meters require no permission in Pakistan and so are often overlooked in official records.

Jósef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland

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