American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Rakaposhi Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Rakaposhi Attempt. After arriving at Jaglot on July 24, José Angel Cobo, Perfecto Rodríguez, Francisco José Ruiz, Iñaki Ruiz, Pedro Sánchez and I as leader set out with 18 porters through Barit and Dobar to arrive at Base Camp at 3750 meters on July 27. We attempted the northwest ridge. This was first climbed by a Polish-Pakistani expedition in 1979 and by Netherlanders in 1986. The two routes were different in how they got onto the ridge. Our route was a slight variant of the Netherland route. We placed Camp I at 4700 meters on July 29 before being stopped by bad weather. From August 3 to 8, we fixed 1100 meters of rope with UIAA difficulties of IV+ and 50° ice and established Camp II on the ridge crest at 6000 meters. From August 9 to 17, there was bad weather. On the 18th and 19th, we fixed another 100 meters of rope and set up Camp III at 6800 meters. On August 20 a team got to 7000 meters but was driven back by bad weather. We withdrew to Base Camp and gave up the attempt.

Jaime Alonso, Alpino Tabira Mendizale Taldea, Spain

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