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Asia, Pakistan, Baintha Brakk, North Ridge Attempt

Baintha Brakk, North Ridge Attempt. Our expedition had as its members Andy Perkins, Chris Flewitt, Steve Hartland, Phil Butler, Dave Green, Dr. Timothy Jordan, Paul Nunn and me. After porter problems, we eventually established Base Camp on July 17 on moraine at 15,200 feet. During a week of poor weather, on skis we moved loads to Advance Base at 5060 meters on the Sim Gang (glacier). It was about a seven-hour trip with a 25-kg load. During the six weeks we had only two spells of good weather, one of four and the other of five days. We made two light-weight attempts on the left-hand spur. On the first, on August 8, Perkins, Flewitt and I were hit by severe rock-and-ice fall at 5600 meters. I was luckily unhurt, but Flewitt was severely struck on the shoulder. Perkins was a little behind and so out of the fire. Butler and Perkins on the second attempt on August 10 reached the col on the ridge at 5800 meters. They set up a tent and scanned the route above. It seemed a tottering pile of séracs and so they judged it unjustifiable and retreated. That ended our try.

Andrew Cave, England