American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nameless Tower, Trango Group

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Nameless Tower, Trango Group. A Spanish expedition made another new and very difficult route on the Nameless Tower. It rises between the 1987 Franco-Swiss route (Delale, Fauquet, Piola, Schaffter) and the 1976 British route (Anthoine, Brown, Boysen, Howells). The climbers were Miguel Angel Gallego, José Luis Clavel, Chiri Ros and José Seiquer. They got to Base Camp on June 16. The route to the base of the climb, where 1000 feet higher they established a camp and a supply dump, was very dangerous and several times they were nearly wiped out by avalanches as they were in the narrow corridor. From the high camp, they fixed a considerable amount of rope on the lower part of the tower. The weather was atrocious. In the whole month of July, they had only four good days. Other expeditions in the region quit. They spent 19 nights on the face and climbed 36 pitches in all. Although much was on extremely difficult rock, there were mixed pitches and six rope-lengths on a steep icefield. The final pitches presented an unusual problem. The summit snowcap kept releasing both powder-snow avalanches and cascades of water. In the last four pitches, they joined Piola’s route. All four climbers got to the summit on August 9. (A full report with photographs appears in Desnivel, N° 50, November 1989.)

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