American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Broad Peak Attempts

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Broad Peak Attempts. This was not a good year for expeditions to Broad Peak. Bernard Muller and his wife Laurence de la Ferrière led an international group of some 22 climbers but they were unsucessful. They included well known climbers such as Swiss guide Stéphane Schaffter, Yves Lambert (son of the famous Raymond Lambert) and Eric Haefelin. Italians Fabrizio Defrancesco, leader, Almo Giambisi, Mario Manica and Stefano Ventura got to Base Camp on June 22. They placed camps at 5900, 6400 and 7000 meters. After a rest at Base Camp, they left on a summit attempt but gave up on July 8 at 7500 because of steep deep snow. Japanese led by Tadakiyo Sakahara established four high camps but could get no higher than Camp IV at 7720 meters. Other expeditions that could not reach the summit included Swiss with Romolo Nottaris and Mexicans under the leadership of Antonio Cortés.

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