American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Eastern Karakoram, Mamostang Kangri, Third Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Mamostong Kangri, Third Ascent. Indian Army Engineers led by me climbed Mamostong Kangri (“Thousand Devils Peak”) by the same route as the Indo-Japanese expedition of 1984. A team of twenty climbers was supported by nine others. We made a two-day approach march from Sasoma on the traditional silk route. We established Base Camp at the snout of the Mamostong Glacier on September 15. Two camps were placed on the Mamostong Glacier at 5100 and 5600 meters on July 18 and 25. We crossed a 5885-meter pass to the Thangman Glacier and established Camp III at 6000 meters at the foot of the icefall from the east ridge. We placed Camp IV on the east ridge at 6600 meters on August 6. It took two days to secure the route to 7200 meters with soft snow all the way. On August 10, Captain Gurdyal Singh, G.K. Sharma, Mewa Singh, Nanak Chand, Thondup Dorjee and I reached the summit (7516 meters, 24,660 feet). A second summit team led by deputy leader Major Y.C. Chhibber was beaten back by bad weather on August 11. The team also climbed P 6235 (20,456 feet) and P 6190 (20,309 feet) above the Thangman Glacier on August 11 and 13.

M.P Yadav, Major, Indian Army

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