Matho Kangri I and III. Matho Kangri (or Yan Kangri) had been climbed only once before, by Japanese in 1986. A 21-member team from the Army Ordnance Corps was led by Major Harjit Singh Bawa. They reached Base Camp at 15,000 feet on the Shang River on August 29 and gained the summit (6230 meters, 20,440 feet) two days later. Further details are not known. Another expedition of ten established Camp I at 18,000 feet on September 11. On the 12th, leader Babban Prasad Singh, Sudhir Kumar, M.M. Singh, Chhering Lotto and guide Chewang Norbu set out for the summit. Although M.M. Singh very nearly had a fatal slip, all reached the summit at 12:45. That same day, others headed for Matho Kangri III but were turned back the next day by a snowstorm. They returned from Base Camp to a new Camp I at 18,500 feet on the 15th. At one P.M. on September 16, B.P. Singh, Dilip Kumar, B.K. Srivastava and Skikant Srivavasta climbed rock bands, loose boulders and snow to gain the summit of Matho III (6121 meters, 20,083 feet).
Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta, India