Hagshu, Kishtwar Himalaya. We were Tim Whitaker, Max Holliday, Phil Booth, Ken Hopper and I. Booth, Hopper and Holliday made the first legal ascent of Hagshu (6330 meters, 20,768 feet), reaching the summit on September 16 after a three-day, alpine-style climb of the east face. I returned to Base Camp with Whitaker, who had contracted pulmonary edema after we had reached 6000 meters on the north face and east ridge. Whitaker made a fast recovery but obviously was unable to make a second attempt. Both routes were approached in two days from Base Camp on the Zanskar side north of the mountain. The climbing was relatively easy, but serious.

Robin Beadle, British Mountaineering Council