American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Kashmir and Jammu, Kun Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Kun Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Carla Barbanti, Claudio Ansaloni, Gian Paolo Bassi, Ermanno Boccolari, Giancarlo Calza, Loris Duzzi, Pietro Feretti, Sergio Leoni, Massimo Lugli, Antonella Mezzadri, Luciano Pasquali, Gerardo Re Depaolini, Paolo Tamagnini, Franco Vivarelli, Angelo Zatti and me as leader. Our approach was made difficult by the flooding of the Suru River. Horses could be got only to 4050 meters and the climbers had to carry everything to 4350 meters to Base Camp. We set up Camp I at 5350 meters on July 16, hoping to climb the northeast side. Camp II was established on the 17th after fixing 100 meters of rope and climbing an ice slope for 300 meters to the plateau. Camp III at 6350 meters between Kun and Pinnacle Peak was occupied on July 19. Heavy snows on July 20, 21 and 23 created great avalanche danger and we gave up the attempt on July 26.

Arturo Bergamaschi, Club Alpino Italiano

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.