American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Kashmir and Jammu, Kun Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Kun Attempt. A Colorado Mountain Club group attempted to climb Kun by the northeast ridge. Dick Dietz, Kent Groninger, Cathleen Richards and I left Kargil on June 11. The road was passable by truck only to near Parkachik. On June 12, we rigged a pulley system to cross the Suru River via the cable while our equipment was carried across by horses. Deep snow drifts stopped the horses beyond the river and we got to Base Camp at 14,400 feet along the Shafat Glacier only on June 16. We established Camps I, II, III and IV at 17,000, 18,500, 20,000 and 20,500 feet on June 19, 22, 25 and 26. On June 27, we went for the summit but abandoned the climb in heavy fog and waist-deep snow on a 45° slope.

Kenneth P Nolan

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