American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Garhwal, Thalay Sagar Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Thalay Sagar Attempt. Japanese Akira Kiuchi, Ken Kodachi and high-altitude porter Barubiru attempted to climb the west ridge of Thalay Sagar. They established Base Camp and Camps I and II at 4750, 4900 and 5300 meters on May 21, 25 and 29. Snowfall slowed them. It took five days to fix 13 pitches to 5750 meters. Kodachi fell sick on June 8. The other two continued. Above the schrund was a 40° to 60° ice couloir. The snow was stable but there was falling rock and ice. It snowed on June 10 and 11 and Kodachi left. On June 14 Kiuchi quit at 6150 meters after Barubiru was hit on the thigh by a falling rock while belaying.

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