American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Garhwal, Meru Attempt and Bhagirathi II Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Meru Attempt and Bhagirathi II Ascent. After a British group failed to climb the east ridge of Meru, Andrew MacNae and Gavin Thomas made a rapid ascent of Bhagirathi II (6512 meters, 21,365 feet) by its east face. Sudarshan Parbat Attempt and Thelu Ascent. After a three-day bus ride to Gangotri, James Cade, Mark Dale, Steven Steckmyer, Edward and Margaret Yoshida and I spent an easy six days getting to Base Camp on May 18 at 4500 meters at the junction of the Thelu and Raktvam valleys. We established Camp I at the end of the Thelu Glacier at 5280 meters on May 21 and Camp II at 5715 meters at the head of the glacier on May 30. Thelu (6002 meters, 19,691 feet) was climbed by all of us and the liaison officer via fairly steep snow slopes and the northeast ridge, which connects it to Sudarshan Parbat. The route we attempted on the latter was the southwest ridge, first climbed by Japanese in 1985. We gained the ridge via a gully to the right of the Japanese route and placed Camp III at 5915 meters on June 9. That same day Dale and Steckmyer climbed to 6160 meters, our high point. That evening heavy snowfall began, which lasted for 48 hours. Thereafter the weather was poor with fog and more snowfall. We left Base Camp on June 17.

Michael D. Clarke

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