American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Garhwal, Bhagirathi I, North Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Bhagirathi I, North Ridge. Our expedition was composed of Toshifumi Sakae, Mikiei Otake, Kenichi Saito, Miss Yuki Sato, Miss Noriko Hasegawa and me as leader. We set up Base Camp at Nandanban, Advance Base on the northeast side of Bhagirathi II and Camp I below the northeast spur of the north ridge of Bhagirathi I at 4400, 4800 and 5500 meters on August 15, 17 and 20. Bad weather set in for ten days. On September 5, we established Camp II on the northeast spur at 6000 meters. Camp III was placed at 6500 meters just below Schubert’s Peak. Camp IV was established beyond Schubert’s Peak in the col between it and P 6550 on September 16. On September 20, Sakae and Saito continued along the north ridge to the summit of Bhagirathi I (6856 meters, 22,493 feet), completing the new route. The two women made an attempt on September 22 but did not have enough time.

Takeomi Sasaki, Aizuwakamatsu Alpine Club, Japan

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