Karchakund. Our expedition consisted of Daniele Turrini, Amaldo Colombo, Luigi Gallo, Anna Rosa Guzzetti, Luigi Mascherini and me as leader. We got to Base Camp at Tapovan at 4350 meters on August 2. On August 6, we set up Advance Base at Sundanban at 4630 meters. We placed Camp I at 4800 meters on the Kirti Glacier on the 9th. The ascent began on the 13th. We climbed a 55° gully for 500 meters to reach the west ridge. Camp II was at 5650 meters. Turrini, Gallo and Lopsang Sherpa climbed snow-covered rock, steep snow gullies and ice slopes up to 60° for ten hours to place Camp III. On August 15, the three reached the summit of Karchakund (6632 meters, 21,758 feet). Meanwhile Anna Rosa Guzzetti and I occupied Camp III. On August 17, we two also reached the summit.

Luigi Cattaneo, Club Alpino Italiano