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Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri Attempt

Dhaulagiri Attempt. On September 16, Oscar Cardiach and I arrived at Base Camp at 4700 meters below the northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri after crossing Dhampus and French Passes. There we met two French expeditions, one civilian and one military, and a Basque one. We also talked with ill-fated Quicu Dalmases and Jordi Cañameras, who were to attempt the west face. On September 19, Cardiach and I set out for Camp I at 5650 meters on the northeast col. The first part is easy but exposed to avalanches and rockfall from the Eiger. The second part took us through a very broken sérac barrier, where we fixed some rope. We spent two nights there before returning to Base Camp. We were back on the 23rd with worsening weather. Finally on the 26th, we set up Camp II at 6750 meters. This stretch should have been easy but snow and windslabs made it dangerous and we descended to Base Camp. The French military lost two Sherpas in an avalanche on the 27th. Much more snow fell. On October 2, we reascended to Camp I but were forced back the next day. After much snowfall, we plowed our way back up to Camp I on the 9th. We tried unsuccessfully to get back to Camp II on the 10th. We left Base Camp on October 13.

Jordi MagriÑÁ, AAEET de Vails, Spain