American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Dhaulagiri. Our expedition was composed of Graziano Bianchi, Dr. Elisa- bettaCastellaro, Fausto Destefani, Aristide Galbusera, Silvio Mondinelli, Claudio Schranz, Maurizio Simonetto, Lino Zani, Sergio Martini and me as leader. Our original plan of climbing the southwest side was impossible because of slides. On April 25, we moved to Base Camp at 4600 meters below the northeast ridge, having been allowed by the Chileans to try that route. After reconnaissance in bad weather, we all started for Camp I at 5700 meters on the northeast col on April 30. Zani fell into a crevasse halfway up and had to be helped back to Base Camp. He was evacuated by helicopter on May 3 at which time several members left. Camps II and III were established at 6400 and 7000 meters on May 2 and 3. The weather was very unstable. On May 10, Destefani and Martini placed Camp IV at 7500 meters and on the 11th reached the summit at 11:45 after a six-hour climb. This was the eighth 8000er for both. News that Tibet had been reopened reached us on May 12 and bad weather returned. For that reason, we quit to head for Everest, our previous objective.

Oreste Forno, Club Alpino Italiano

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