American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Annapurna IV Ascent, Possible Ascent and Tragedy on Annapurna II

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Annapurna IV Ascent, Possible Ascent and Tragedy on Annapurna II. Our expedition had as members Park Duk-Woo, Chang Byung-Ho, Jeong Jae-Ho, Kim Yong-Kyu, Jeong Kab-Yong, Jeong Joon-Mo, Lee Su-Jin, Cho Won-Bae and me as leader. We set up Base Camp at 3600 meters north of the peaks on August 20 and Advance Base and Camps I, II and III at 5300, 6300, 7300 and 7400 meters on August 23, September 3, 11 and 20. Camp III was for Annapurna II only. On September 20, Cho Won-Bae, Jeong Joon-Mo and Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa climbed to the summit of Annapurna IV (7525 meters, 24,688 feet) via the east ridge. This was the 22nd ascent. On September 21, Kim Yong-Kyu and Jeong Kab-Yong were contacted by radio just below the rock face under the summit on the west ridge. They expected to complete the ascent of Annapurna II (7937 meters, 26,041 feet,) in a short time and bivouac high on the mountain that night. The other members waited for a radio call from them with the good news, but it never came. A search team ascended to Camp III but they could find no trace of them.

Lee Dong-Myung, Yeungnam University Alpine Club, South Korea

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.