American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Annapurna, Bulgarian Attempt on South Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Annapurna, Bulgarian Attempt on South Face, Winter 1988-9. A Bulgarian expedition was led by Metodi Savov and composed of Ivan Vlchev, Arso Arsov, Dino Tomov, Dimitr Nachev, Kostas Kandidis and Liubomir Ilyev. After a difficult approach complicated by snowfalls, Base Camp was established from November 6 to 10, 1988. They acclimatized on lower summits. Advance Base was at 5100 meters. Between December 1 and 12, three camps were placed along the 1981 Polish route on Annapurna’s south face, the highest at 6500 meters. The leading team reached a high point of 6800 meters. Ang Kami Sherpa was injured in a crevasse fall between Camps II and III. Heavy snowfalls between December 16 and 27 interrupted climbing. On December 30, a new attempt was made. However, it began to snow heavily again and on January 6, they decided to abandon the climb. This was the second unsuccessful Bulgarian winter attempt. In 1985-6, they got to 7000 meters.

JóZEF Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland

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