American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Tilitso, Winter Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Tilitso, Winter Attempt. J.C. Laverne, Don Adamson, Chris Macknie, Martin Lurtz and I as leader started our trek from Dumre on November 15. From Manang we cut across in four days to the Tilitso Base Camp on the shore of the lake at 5000 meters. Continuing cold and bad weather forced us to wait out even another storm. On December 1, four climbers and the Sherpas reached the foot of the northeast ridge. Laverne, one Sherpa and I kept on to Camp I at 5500 meters, which we hacked out of ice on the ridge. The Sherpa was forced back the next morning by the cold. We two kept on to 6100 meters at which point we decided to abort the climb. Because of the cold, the new snow was so dry that it provided no secure base for footing. Under the snow was loose rock.

Steve Adamson, Alpine Club of Canada

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