American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Everest Attempt by Austrians

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Everest Attempt by Austrians. Kurt Stüwe and Sepp Hassler were to have been members of an Austrian expedition to the Tibetan side of Mount Everest, but when the permission for that was withdrawn, they applied for the South Col route. They arrived at Base Camp only late in April to find many climbers on the mountain and a beaten path to the South Col. Apparently there were many difficulties between the two climbers and much of the time they operated separately. On April 30, Stüwe climbed the Khumbu Icefall to Camp I, followed the next day by Hassler. The latter fell into a crevasse, extricated himself and was escorted to Camp I. It took them ten days to get established at Camp II, where they say there was a small city with some 50 tents! Stüve joined two Americans and after two nights on the South Col made an unsuccessful try on May 14 to 8200 meters. When they descended, they found Hassler at Camp III. He had unsuccessfully tried to reach the South Col and had had to turn back at the Yellow Band. He descended to Base Camp and did not make any further attempts. Stüwe teamed up with American Jay Sieger; they reached the South Col again on May 18. There was deep new snow. They set out at midnight and almost immediately one of Stüwe’s crampons broke. Nonetheless, he carried on. The pair got to 8500 meters at three P.M.on the 19th, but wisely gave up the attempt there.

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