American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Asia, Nepal, Lhotse South Face Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Lhotse South Face Attempt. Our expedition, led by Reinhold Messner, was international. The members were Italians Hans Kammerlander and Roland Losso, French Bruno Cormier, Christophe Profit, Sylvianne Tavernier, Michel Arizzi, Spaniard Enric Lucas, Swiss Fulvio Mariani and Poles Artur Hajzer and We set up Base Camp a little too late, on April 9. The wall was in unusual condition. Due to some very dry months, there was less ice and snow and the wall seemed more dangerous. We decided to take the Austrian route on Lhotse Shar to 7100 meters and then to make a long traverse on the highest sérac barrier to the Czech-Polish line on the main face. We placed Camps I, II and III on April 11,21 and 27 at 5800, 6700 and 7100 meters, the latter in the middle of the traverse. It was apparent that it was too late to extend the line of camps. After we were acclimatized up to 7100 meters, we decided to carry out different plans. Hajzer and I tried to climb alpine-style the Czech-Polish line, which we had already tried in 1985 and 1987. From May 11 to May 14, we climbed to 7100 meters, where bad weather stopped us. We spent three nights there and on May 17, having finished our food and fuel and with no improvement in the weather, we made a long traverse to the right to Camp III, from which we descended to Base Camp on May 18. Profit and Lucas were also thinking about the central couloir, but they again attempted the prepared route. Due to ever worsening weather, they abandoned too. On May 20, all members were back in Base Camp.

Krzysztof Wielicki, Klub Wysokogórski Tychy, Poland

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