American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Baruntse Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Baruntse Attempt. Our expedition had as members Gerd Krischer, Wolfgang Seul, Dr. Michael Hahn, Dr. Dieter Rebmann, Ingrid Weitzsch, Dieter and Hilde Müller, Wolfgang Grade, Wolf Wilfert, Werner Wilmes and me as leader. Our approach started on April 18 from Jiri, ascended the Khari Khola and Thuli Kharka, went over the Mera La into the uninhabited Hunku valley. Base Camp, high in that valley at 5350 meters on the easternmost of the Panch Pokhari, was reached on May 2. The approach was made more difficult for the porters by two snowstorms. Seul and I prepared the route to the west col up a 200-meter-high, 50° ice face south of the col. On May 6, we all occupied Camp I at 6135 meters on the west col. The next day we climbed to 6500 meters but could not pitch Camp II because of wind and so descended to Base Camp. On May 9, Wilfert, Wilmes and I and three Sherpas climbed to Camp I and the next day placed Camp II at 6500 meters. Wilmes and I reached 6900 meters on May 11, climbing in 6 inches of exhausting breakable crust. A high-altitude cough made me quit. On May 15 we crossed the Amphu Labtsa Pass. We erected a 300-meter lift to lower equipment into the Imja Dragka valley.

Udo Schmidt, Deutscher Alpenverein

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