American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Kumbhakarna (Jannu) Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Kumbhakarna (Jannu) Attempt. On September 25, Rob Mahoney, Kevin O’Meara and I established Base Camp at 15,000 feet on the Yamatari Glacier on the south side of Kumbhakarna. On October 1, we moved to Camp I at 17,000 feet. Camp II was established five days later at 18,500 feet. In another five days, we fixed 1500 feet of rope to Camp III at 20,500 feet. We found our way to the hanging ice shelf above the Yamatari Icefall and Camp IV at 21,200 feet by October 25. On October 26, we placed an alpine-style bivouac at 23,125 feet, which proved to be our high point. We felt we were one day from the top. After waiting a full day for the very high winds to stop, we descended to another bivouac on October 28 and back to Base Camp on October 29. We left the mountain on the 30th.

Hooman Aprin, Unaffiliated

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