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Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Solo Attempt

Kangchenjunga Solo Attempt. I was accompanied to Base Camp at 5050 meters at Pang Pema, which we reached on October 10, by Jean-Yves Goutte, Mlle Monique Loscos and Jean-Louis Teyssier. I attempted the 1980 Japanese route, placing Camps I and II at 6000 and 6850 meters on October 18 and 23. I encountered the principal technical difficulty on October 24, a very steep mixed zone above 7000 meters, some 200 meters in height, where I fixed 50 meters of rope. I got to about 7100 meters. The first summit try got me to Camps I and II on October 29 and 30, but was stopped by a 40-cm fall of snow. On the second summit attempt I climbed from Base Camp to Camp II on November 3. That camp was destroyed by high winds and I returned to Base Camp on the 4th. I stayed there until November 9, but the wind continued and I gave up the attempt.

Eric Monier, Club Alpin Fran├žais