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South America, Tierra del Fuego, Roncagli, Cordillera Darwin, Tierra del Fuego, 1990

Roncagli, Cordillera Darwin, Tierra del Fuego, 1990. On January 14, 1990, Julian Mathias, John Mothersele and I made the first ascent of magnificent Roncagli (2300 meters, 7046 feet) by its northwest ridge to the north summit. We climbed 1200 vertical meters of sustained mixed climbing in a 20-hour push from an advanced glacial camp. This was the fifth British expedition to visit the area and attempt the peak. The line climbed had originally been attempted in 1988 by Iain Peters and me after we has spotted the possible route on this complex peak when we saw it during our ascent of Pico Ohi. This year, we also made the first ascent of Pico PaĆ­s de Galles to the east of the Stoppani Glacier.

David Hillebrandt, Alpine Club