American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Patagonia, Aguja Mermoz, East Buttress

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Aguja Mermoz, East Buttress. Italians Vanni Spinelli, Ezio Tanzi, Antonio Colombo, Giulio Maggioni, Danilo Galbiati, Giorgio Confalonieri and Davide Corbetta climbed the 700-meter-high east buttress of the Aguja Mermoz. They set up Base Camp at the Piedra del Fraile on October 19. Bad weather delayed them but on October 24, they got to the Paso del Cuadrado. The next day, they fixed rope on snow-covered slabs. More storms followed. On the 28th, they began working up a 300-meter-high dihedral. Finally, on October 31, those who had been preparing the route were joined by all the others, who ascended the fixed ropes. Together, they climbed the whole day, getting to the summit at ten P.M. They then made several attempts on Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, all frustrated by bad weather. Finally, Spinelli and Maggioni made a 120-kilometer crossing of the Southern Continental Icecap.

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